Leh Ladakh Travel Guide: Best Time, Permits, 7-Day Itinerary
Plan a Leh Ladakh trip: when to go, acclimatisation, permits, a 7-day itinerary covering Nubra, Pangong and Tso Moriri, budget and packing list.
A Leh Ladakh trip is the journey many Indians put on their list for years: high desert valleys, lakes that change colour by the hour, monasteries perched on cliffs and roads that cross some of the highest motorable passes in the world. It is also a place where planning really matters, because altitude affects everyone regardless of fitness.
When to go
June to September is the main season. Snow has cleared from the passes, the Manali–Leh and Srinagar–Leh highways open, and days are warm (around 20–25°C) though nights are cold. July and August see a little rain in the region but far less than the rest of India.
May and October are quieter and cheaper, with snow on the peaks and colder nights. Some lakeside camps close by mid-October.
Winter (November–March) brings −20°C nights and the famous Chadar frozen-river trek. Only for experienced travellers with proper gear.
Getting there
- By air: Leh's Kushok Bakula Rimpochee Airport has direct flights from Delhi year-round, and from Mumbai and other cities in season. The flight over the Himalaya is spectacular; sit on the left side from Delhi.
- By road from Manali: about 430 km over 2 days, crossing high passes such as Baralacha La and Tanglang La. Gradual climbing helps acclimatisation.
- By road from Srinagar: about 420 km via Sonamarg, Zoji La and Kargil, usually broken at Kargil.
Acclimatisation: don't skip it
Leh sits at about 3,500 m. Travellers arriving by air should rest completely for the first 24–36 hours, drink plenty of water, avoid alcohol and smoking, and keep the first day to a short walk. Headache, nausea and breathlessness are signs of acute mountain sickness. If symptoms get worse, descend and see a doctor; Leh has a good district hospital and clinics. Many doctors suggest discussing preventive medicine with a family physician before the trip.
A 7-day Ladakh itinerary
| Day | Plan |
|---|---|
| 1 | Arrive Leh. Rest. Short evening stroll in Leh market only if feeling well. |
| 2 | Leh local: Shanti Stupa, Leh Palace, Hall of Fame. Still taking it easy. |
| 3 | Monastery day: Thiksey, Hemis and Shey. Optional Sindhu Ghat. |
| 4 | Drive to Nubra Valley via Khardung La. Diskit Monastery and the Hunder sand dunes. |
| 5 | Nubra to Pangong Tso via the Shyok route. Sunset by the lake. |
| 6 | Pangong sunrise, return to Leh via Chang La. |
| 7 | Magnetic Hill, Gurudwara Pathar Sahib, Sangam (Indus–Zanskar confluence). Fly out next morning. |
Places not to miss
Pangong Tso stretches about 134 km into Tibet and shifts from turquoise to deep blue as clouds move across it. Stay overnight at Spangmik or Man-Merak to see it at sunrise.
Nubra Valley surprises everyone with sand dunes at Hunder, double-humped Bactrian camels and green villages full of apricot trees.
Thiksey Monastery looks like a smaller Potala Palace. Get there by 6:30 am for the morning prayers.
Tso Moriri is quieter and more remote than Pangong, a high lake ringed by snow peaks, with nomadic Changpa herders nearby.
Hanle has one of the world's highest observatories and India's first dark sky reserve. Clear nights are unforgettable.
Getting around
Leh's taxi union sets fixed rates for local and outstation trips; most visitors hire a taxi for the whole circuit. Self-drive SUVs and rented Royal Enfields are popular, but outside taxis from other states face restrictions in some areas. Mobile signal is patchy outside Leh; postpaid connections of major operators work best.
What to eat
Try thukpa (noodle soup), momos, skyu (hand-pulled pasta stew), butter tea and apricot jam from the Nubra orchards. Leh's cafés serve excellent bakery items and Israeli and Tibetan food in season.
Rough budget per person (7 days)
| Item | Budget | Mid-range |
|---|---|---|
| Stay | ₹1,200–2,000/night | ₹3,500–7,000/night |
| Shared taxi for circuit | ₹8,000–12,000 | ₹15,000–25,000 (private) |
| Food | ₹600–900/day | ₹1,200–2,000/day |
| Permits & fees | ₹600–1,000 | ₹600–1,000 |
Flights vary wildly by season; book early for June.
Packing list
- Warm layers: thermals, fleece, down jacket, woollen cap, gloves
- Sunglasses with UV protection and SPF 50 sunscreen; the sun is fierce at altitude
- Lip balm and moisturiser
- Reusable water bottle (Leh has refill stations)
- Cash: ATMs exist in Leh but not in Nubra or Pangong
- A basic medicine kit, including anything a doctor recommends for altitude
Respecting Ladakh
Ladakh's environment is fragile. Carry all waste back, refill water bottles rather than buying plastic, stay on tracks, and ask before photographing people or the inside of monasteries. A simple "Julley!" (the all-purpose Ladakhi greeting and thanks) goes a long way.
Frequently asked questions
What is the best time to visit Ladakh?
June to September, when roads like Manali–Leh and Srinagar–Leh are open and days are pleasant. May and early October are quieter but colder; winter is for experienced travellers only.
How many days are enough for Ladakh?
Seven days covers Leh, Nubra Valley and Pangong comfortably, including the essential rest day. Add two to three days for Tso Moriri or Hanle.
Is a permit needed for Ladakh?
Leh town doesn't need one, but areas like Nubra, Pangong, Tso Moriri and Hanle require a permit or online registration and an environment fee. Rules change, so check the official Ladakh tourism portal before travelling.
