Varanasi Travel Guide: Ghats, Ganga Aarti and What to Expect
Plan a Varanasi trip: the best ghats, sunrise boat ride, Ganga aarti at Dashashwamedh, Kashi Vishwanath, Sarnath, street food and practical tips.
A Varanasi trip is unlike any other in India. Varanasi, also called Kashi and Banaras, is one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities in the world. Life and death happen side by side along its 80-odd ghats on the Ganga: pilgrims bathing at dawn, wrestlers training, students reciting mantras, and cremation fires that never go out. It can be overwhelming, but few places are as moving.
When to go
October to March is best. Mornings can be foggy in December–January, which makes for atmospheric (if delayed) boat rides. Dev Deepawali, on the full moon after Diwali, lights every ghat with lamps and is spectacular but extremely crowded. Summers are very hot; during the monsoon, the river rises and some ghats flood.
Getting there
Lal Bahadur Shastri International Airport is about 25 km from the ghats. Varanasi Junction and Banaras stations are well connected, and the Vande Bharat from Delhi takes about 8 hours.
The ghats
Walk the riverfront from Assi Ghat in the south to Manikarnika in the north (about 6 km). Highlights:
- Assi Ghat: relaxed, with morning aarti and yoga.
- Kedar Ghat: striking red-and-white striped steps and a South Indian temple.
- Harishchandra Ghat: one of the two cremation ghats.
- Dashashwamedh Ghat: the busiest, home to the grand evening aarti.
- Manikarnika Ghat: the main cremation ghat, considered the holiest place to be cremated. Watch quietly from a respectful distance and never photograph cremations.
- Panchganga and Scindia Ghats: quieter, with the half-submerged Ratneshwar temple at Scindia.
Sunrise boat ride
Rowing boats leave at dawn from Assi and Dashashwamedh. Agree the rate before boarding; prices go up at aarti time. The ghats glow orange as the sun rises across the river and the city wakes up along the banks.
Ganga aarti
At Dashashwamedh every evening, young priests perform synchronised rituals with large brass lamps, conch shells and bells. Arrive 45 minutes early for a spot on the steps, or watch from a boat.
Kashi Vishwanath Temple
One of the twelve jyotirlingas of Shiva. The Kashi Vishwanath Corridor now links the temple to the ghats. Phones, bags and leather items aren't allowed inside; use lockers outside. Queues are shortest early morning.
Sarnath (half day)
About 10 km away, Sarnath is where the Buddha gave his first sermon. See the Dhamek Stupa, the archaeological museum (home of the Lion Capital, India's national emblem) and the peaceful temples built by Buddhist countries.
A 3-day plan
| Day | Plan |
|---|---|
| 1 | Settle in, walk the ghats from Assi northwards, evening aarti at Dashashwamedh. |
| 2 | Sunrise boat ride, Kashi Vishwanath, old-city lanes, Banaras Hindu University campus. |
| 3 | Sarnath in the morning, silk weavers in the afternoon, Assi Ghat evening. |
Food to try
Banaras is a food city. Try kachori-sabzi and jalebi for breakfast, tamatar chaat, malaiyyo (a saffron milk foam available only in winter mornings), lassi in clay cups, baati chokha and of course a Banarasi paan.
Tips
- Wear comfortable shoes and expect crowds, cows and steps.
- Dress modestly and remove shoes where asked.
- Be clear and polite with touts offering "special" cremation tours or silk shops.
- Stay near the ghats (Assi to Dashashwamedh) to make sunrise easy.
Frequently asked questions
What time is the Ganga aarti in Varanasi?
The evening aarti at Dashashwamedh Ghat starts around sunset (roughly 6–7 pm, earlier in winter) and lasts about 45 minutes. A quieter morning aarti takes place at Assi Ghat before sunrise.
How many days are enough for Varanasi?
Two to three days covers the ghats, the aarti, Kashi Vishwanath and a half-day trip to Sarnath.
